LuckyFortuna.com
Saturday September 23, 2017
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Survival in the water and in life is always a question of balance. The principle is expressed in the equation “Nature = God” carved into the sandstone above Malibu by legendary waterman Tom Blake…

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“It’s that same feeling out in the lineup as the hungry pack stalks the next set. Like desperate smorgasboarders [sic.] waiting for the next tray of stroganoff to arrive, there is no “we” here, just a bunch of primordial I’s. Everyone wants first dibs, everyone wants the best slice of swell — a prime cut with no one else trying to slide a piece of shoulder off their plate…”

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“Actually, for the most part, you’re competing for waves, a tradition that goes all the way back to the early Hawai’ian kings, who got their own surf spots… But at the common beaches, things were contrastingly democratic. ..”

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“The first surfer drops down the wave, warily eyeing the steepening wall, scrambling paddlers, and a gauntlet of guys who are riveted on his every move, looking for any hesitation or weakness that will tempt them to slide in ahead of him. The rider, in turn, tries to control the situation by projecting a kind of physical and psychic ownership over the full length of the wave as he begins to execute big maneuvers that take up a lot of room and throw a heap of spray…”

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“There are maybe twenty-five guys in the main take-off zone, and the set is likely to have four to six decent waves. Every surfer wants one, and everyone wants one to themselves…”

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“…and we are all swept irresistibly along the lines of our fates – all headed for that great cement mixer at the end of the road. And even resistance doesn’t matter, not a bit. Even the greats will fall from greatness. Even the meanest, toughest, punkest, nastiest dude will grow old and wrinkled and won’t be able to chew wet toast…”

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Dorothy Parker: “Exactly what do you mean by ‘guts’?”
Ernest Hemingway: “I mean, grace under pressure.”

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