LuckyFortuna.com
Friday February 22, 2019
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“It’s that same feeling out in the lineup as the hungry pack stalks the next set. Like desperate smorgasboarders [sic.] waiting for the next tray of stroganoff to arrive, there is no “we” here, just a bunch of primordial I’s. Everyone wants first dibs, everyone wants the best slice of swell — a prime cut with no one else trying to slide a piece of shoulder off their plate…”

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“There are maybe twenty-five guys in the main take-off zone, and the set is likely to have four to six decent waves. Every surfer wants one, and everyone wants one to themselves…”

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