LuckyFortuna.com
Friday April 19, 2019
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Survival in the water and in life is always a question of balance. The principle is expressed in the equation “Nature = God” carved into the sandstone above Malibu by legendary waterman Tom Blake…

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The homies are getting hit hard. Adversity is all around. Stu Gimlet pinched his neck on a surfing trip. Another discovered an infidelity. A volcano blows. We throw the iching coins. Read More

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prayer-wht

“Outdoors is where the great mystery lies, so going into nature should be a searching and humbling experience, like going to church.” — Skip Whitcomb

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“It’s that same feeling out in the lineup as the hungry pack stalks the next set. Like desperate smorgasboarders [sic.] waiting for the next tray of stroganoff to arrive, there is no “we” here, just a bunch of primordial I’s. Everyone wants first dibs, everyone wants the best slice of swell — a prime cut with no one else trying to slide a piece of shoulder off their plate…”

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“The first surfer drops down the wave, warily eyeing the steepening wall, scrambling paddlers, and a gauntlet of guys who are riveted on his every move, looking for any hesitation or weakness that will tempt them to slide in ahead of him. The rider, in turn, tries to control the situation by projecting a kind of physical and psychic ownership over the full length of the wave as he begins to execute big maneuvers that take up a lot of room and throw a heap of spray…”

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ARTcompass

“Palms were ripped from their shallow roots. The Plantation House splintered into shards of glass, mahogany and sandalwood. Wild-eyed livestock thrashed to keep their heads above water. The wave carried us relentlessly forward…”

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“One of the ways to reset your clock is to sit under a night sky full of stars and watch the world turn. That is the pace that we must live by…”

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