LuckyFortuna.com
Friday February 22, 2019
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Survival in the water and in life is always a question of balance. The principle is expressed in the equation “Nature = God” carved into the sandstone above Malibu by legendary waterman Tom Blake…

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“It’s that same feeling out in the lineup as the hungry pack stalks the next set. Like desperate smorgasboarders [sic.] waiting for the next tray of stroganoff to arrive, there is no “we” here, just a bunch of primordial I’s. Everyone wants first dibs, everyone wants the best slice of swell — a prime cut with no one else trying to slide a piece of shoulder off their plate…”

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“Actually, for the most part, you’re competing for waves, a tradition that goes all the way back to the early Hawai’ian kings, who got their own surf spots… But at the common beaches, things were contrastingly democratic. ..”

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“The first surfer drops down the wave, warily eyeing the steepening wall, scrambling paddlers, and a gauntlet of guys who are riveted on his every move, looking for any hesitation or weakness that will tempt them to slide in ahead of him. The rider, in turn, tries to control the situation by projecting a kind of physical and psychic ownership over the full length of the wave as he begins to execute big maneuvers that take up a lot of room and throw a heap of spray…”

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Its final destruction in shallow water culminates the three phases in the life of a wave. From birth to maturity to death, a wave is subject to the same laws as any other “living” thing…

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Ocean waves are among the earth’s most complicated natural phenomena, yet when we picture waves in the abstract, our minds might conjure an image of the perfect concentric ripples that echo the point of entry of a pebble into smooth pond waters…

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“We are surrounded and influenced everywhere by waves. From the radiations of light and color, to the sounds that vibrate through our atmosphere…”

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