LuckyFortuna.com
Saturday September 23, 2017

The Way of the Waterman

Life came from the sea. The Way of the Waterman explores and presents the epic philosophy of the waterman. At our core, we are all watermen. A waterman, one whose life is dominated by the sea, lives close to the changing rhythms of tide and weather. Over the centuries, this proximity to nature has produced a philosophy for living. —The Fellowship of Fortuna

way160x189

Survival in the water and in life is always a question of balance. The principle is expressed in the equation “Nature = God” carved into the sandstone above Malibu by legendary waterman Tom Blake…

Read More

  • Share/Bookmark

  • Share/Bookmark

  • Share/Bookmark
way160x189

“It’s that same feeling out in the lineup as the hungry pack stalks the next set. Like desperate smorgasboarders [sic.] waiting for the next tray of stroganoff to arrive, there is no “we” here, just a bunch of primordial I’s. Everyone wants first dibs, everyone wants the best slice of swell — a prime cut with no one else trying to slide a piece of shoulder off their plate…”

Read More

  • Share/Bookmark
way160x189

“Actually, for the most part, you’re competing for waves, a tradition that goes all the way back to the early Hawai’ian kings, who got their own surf spots… But at the common beaches, things were contrastingly democratic. ..”

Read More

  • Share/Bookmark


way160x189

“The first surfer drops down the wave, warily eyeing the steepening wall, scrambling paddlers, and a gauntlet of guys who are riveted on his every move, looking for any hesitation or weakness that will tempt them to slide in ahead of him. The rider, in turn, tries to control the situation by projecting a kind of physical and psychic ownership over the full length of the wave as he begins to execute big maneuvers that take up a lot of room and throw a heap of spray…”

Read More

  • Share/Bookmark
way160x189

“There are maybe twenty-five guys in the main take-off zone, and the set is likely to have four to six decent waves. Every surfer wants one, and everyone wants one to themselves…”

Read More

  • Share/Bookmark
LuckyFortuna.com