Future Surfing, Future Living

In the heat of the immediate sensations and preoccupations of the hunt for waves, we are balanced on the fulcrum of time, in the present – ignorant of where we’re coming from, where we’ve been, and unaware of where we’re going. In fact, strange as it might seem, balanced as we are at that fulcrum of time we call the present, we aren’t even aware of where we are!

Yet time waits for no man (or something like that), and we are all swept irresistibly along the lines of our fates – all headed for that great cement mixer at the end of the road. And even resistance doesn’t matter, not a bit.
Even the greats will fall from greatness.
Even the meanest, toughest, punkest, nastiest dude will grow old and wrinkled and won’t be able to chew wet toast.
No one will remember what a hotshot you were.

“Summer” by Rick Rietveld, Courtesy of McKibben Studios. To see more, Click Here


DREW KAMPION is the author of ”The Book of Waves” ”The Art of Christian Riese Lassen”, and ”Stoked: A History of Surf Culture”, the number-one selling book on the history of surf. He is a regular contributor to The Surfer’s Journal, Adrenalin, Longboard, and many other magazines. His website features some of his abundant and thoughtful work.

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